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Canoeing the Rio Grande River


Texsox

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I've been living in South Texas, along the border, for over ten years. During that time, I have sailed and fished the Gulf of Mexico, backpacking and camping throughout the Rio Grande Valley, both on public and private lands. I have scanned the butterfly and birding maps and trodden down trails lined with mesquite and live oaks. I have grown to appreciate the beauty of cacti and respect the hard life of the plants and animals who occupy this region. I thought I knew all the best spots, saw all the best sights.

 

Until yesterday.

To have an interesting life, surround yourself with interesting people.

To see things you have never seen before, find friends who have seen things you have not.

 

This started with a phone call. Would you like to take a canoe trip down the Rio Grande with the Friends of Roma Bluffs? I've been hearing about these float trips for a few years and until now, have resisted trips on the river. I have visited areas near the population centers of McAllen and Donna and the river was dirty with all the signs of visitors that needed to move quickly and for whom taking time to dawdle and "leave no trace" was not an option. This trip was much further up the river, the put in spot was just a few miles below the Falcon Reservoir Dam and would put out several miles and approximately ninety minutes down current and into what would be the prevailing winds.

 

Joining us on the trip was two excellent guides, Bill and Michelle who are full time RVers, wintering in South Texas before heading north towards St. Louis in their kids. They are volunteering through US Fish and Wildlife along with several other couples. Each year with the arrival of our Winter Texans and their dollars, comes passionate volunteers who leave the area better. Making the $10 payments were a retired couple from Wisconsin and their son, and a family of four. All total we had 11 people ranging in age from 9 to (I'll be polite). What I am hinting here is anyone could take this trip.

 

We met at the Roma Bluffs World Birding Center and piled into the US issued van which hauled the canoes up river. Along the way we picked up our volunteer driver who along with his volunteer wife, would be bringing the van and trailer back downriver to the take out spot.

 

After unloading the canoes at a wonderful private campground and a safety and orientation chat, we were floating. The 16' canoes were perfectly maintained and seemingly new. The personal flotation devices were well fitted, and the paddles were well balanced. Most of my recent experiences have been in kayaks, so there was a period of adjustment before I was comfortable.

 

Once confident in the boat and our abilities to control in the current, we began to look around and enjoy the scenery. This area of the river is far from any concentration of people and very clean. At one point, visibility was over three feet to a clean rocky bottom. Of the man made variety we saw very little evidence of humans, a couple fishermen on the south bank, a fence now and then, but most of the time it was just the birds and us.

 

The birds! So many ducks, so many birds we could not identify. Fortunately Bill and Michelle were excellent resources with sharp eyes. Kiskadees were everywhere. Their bright yellow feathers would catch our eyes as we lazily paddled and floated.

 

We had packed water and snacks but were so busy enjoying this stretch of river we never ate. I remembered to stay hydrated, my usually careful friend barely sipped any water. Despite the mild conditions that day, March temperatures stayed in the 70s, she was slightly dehydrated at days end.

 

Irrigation demands down river dictate the flow of water being released from the dam. With water levels higher than normal most navigation challenges were safely below the surface, so our trip was uneventful. We were told at lower levels, some boulders become something to avoid. There have been a couple canoes that have tipped this season, but both were crewed by guests with zero canoe experience who wished to stay together. Besides the unpleasant dunking, no one was injured, and their trips went on as scheduled.

 

Once we arrived at the take out point, we were treated to an incredible sight. A bird feeding station, a short walk from the ramp, offered birders a chance to view up close, dozens of species. From bright red cardinals, to yellow kiskadees, orange orioles, several species of woodpeckers, and many more I wish I had the expertise to describe. Even to a casual observer, this was a treat. And to think the we were a month or two past the prime viewing months of January and February.

 

After a short drive back to the Roma Bluffs Center we were heading back home and trying to describe each moment, hoping to remember every sight along the way. The trips are offered throughout the winter months and I expect to be back next year, with more friends. I only pray the proposed border wall does not destroy this opportunity for future generations.

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