RockRaines Posted February 23, 2015 Share Posted February 23, 2015 (edited) Traded in my wife's CRV for a 2015 Jeep Cherokee. The drive quality is night and day IMO. I still dont understand why those Hondas are so expensive. We did end up getting a great deal since the owner is a friend, below invoice plus 4500 in rebates. Cant beat that friends and family s***, but he knows I dont keep cars long so it keeps me coming back. Edited February 23, 2015 by RockRaines Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iamshack Posted February 23, 2015 Share Posted February 23, 2015 QUOTE (Tex @ Feb 23, 2015 -> 04:07 AM) Commission for them. On the other side, I accepted a $500 rebate for financing with Ford, then two days later moved the loan to USAA at 1/3rd the interest rate never paying any interest to Ford. I understand why they do it, Tex. My question was how the hell is that legal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iamshack Posted February 23, 2015 Share Posted February 23, 2015 QUOTE (RockRaines @ Feb 23, 2015 -> 08:01 AM) Traded in my wife's CRV for a 2015 Jeep Cherokee. The drive quality is night and day IMO. I still dont understand why those Hondas are so expensive. We did end up getting a great deal since the owner is a friend, below invoice plus 4500 in rebates. Cant beat that friends and family s***, but he knows I dont keep cars long so it keeps me coming back. Two Jeeps, wow! I'm going to be getting another SUV in the next 12-18 months most likely. I'll likely ping you about your experience with them then. For now, my daily driver is my wife's '09 Honda Pilot, which is like a tank, but I deal with it. My wife drives the '14 Audi A6 3.0 supercharged, which I must tell you, is a sick, sick car. I create excuses to run errands so I can drive it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigruss Posted February 23, 2015 Share Posted February 23, 2015 QUOTE (iamshack @ Feb 23, 2015 -> 10:10 AM) Two Jeeps, wow! I'm going to be getting another SUV in the next 12-18 months most likely. I'll likely ping you about your experience with them then. For now, my daily driver is my wife's '09 Honda Pilot, which is like a tank, but I deal with it. My wife drives the '14 Audi A6 3.0 supercharged, which I must tell you, is a sick, sick car. I create excuses to run errands so I can drive it. My dad got an A6 demo, completely loaded and got it at a great price. That car is straight awesome sauce. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RockRaines Posted February 23, 2015 Share Posted February 23, 2015 QUOTE (iamshack @ Feb 23, 2015 -> 10:10 AM) Two Jeeps, wow! I'm going to be getting another SUV in the next 12-18 months most likely. I'll likely ping you about your experience with them then. For now, my daily driver is my wife's '09 Honda Pilot, which is like a tank, but I deal with it. My wife drives the '14 Audi A6 3.0 supercharged, which I must tell you, is a sick, sick car. I create excuses to run errands so I can drive it. The new jeeps are just so solid, my 2014 Summit has to be one of my most favorite cars ever. Her Cherokee will be better in the snow, and has more horsepower for pulling out onto the roads around us. I never felt comfortable with her driving that CRV in the snow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iamshack Posted February 23, 2015 Share Posted February 23, 2015 QUOTE (bigruss22 @ Feb 23, 2015 -> 08:36 AM) My dad got an A6 demo, completely loaded and got it at a great price. That car is straight awesome sauce. Russ, is it the 2.0 or the 3.0? The salesman was trying to push a 2.0 on me for some reason. I kept saying "ahh, I dunno if it's enough...I know I won't use the bigger engine all that much, but I want it there for when I need it." He kept telling me I wouldn't really need it. So then I said "Look, it's not even just the engine...I want the trim package that comes with the 3.0. For whatever reason, the 2.0 still looks 'too old' for me." Then I pointed to the 3.0 with the black optics package. He said, "well, if you want the car to look bad, that is the one you want." So I was sitting there trying to justify the extra $8-10k price tag, fully knowing I may as well just admit to myself, knowing there really was no way to justify it. Luckily, they had two 3.0's...a white with black optics and a daytona gray with black optics. I told them I thought I liked the white one...but they were willing to let the gray one go for several grand cheaper. Apparently someone had custom ordered it and then backed out and it was sitting in a dock in Houston for awhile, and then at their dealership for a bit too. So ultimately, I ended up getting it for just a few grand more than the 2.0 I was looking at. Looking back now, and after talking with my service rep a few times, it was absolutely the right decision. The 3.0 is literally a different car than the 2.0. Just much, much faster and smoother. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RockRaines Posted February 23, 2015 Share Posted February 23, 2015 I always get the largest engine displacement available. I cant bring myself to think there is a faster option out there. With that said I drove around the SRT-8 on saturday with the 6.4 L and they almost had me, until he told me there was a 707 HP one coming out. Love power. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigruss Posted February 23, 2015 Share Posted February 23, 2015 QUOTE (iamshack @ Feb 23, 2015 -> 10:44 AM) Russ, is it the 2.0 or the 3.0? The salesman was trying to push a 2.0 on me for some reason. I kept saying "ahh, I dunno if it's enough...I know I won't use the bigger engine all that much, but I want it there for when I need it." He kept telling me I wouldn't really need it. So then I said "Look, it's not even just the engine...I want the trim package that comes with the 3.0. For whatever reason, the 2.0 still looks 'too old' for me." Then I pointed to the 3.0 with the black optics package. He said, "well, if you want the car to look bad, that is the one you want." So I was sitting there trying to justify the extra $8-10k price tag, fully knowing I may as well just admit to myself, knowing there really was no way to justify it. Luckily, they had two 3.0's...a white with black optics and a daytona gray with black optics. I told them I thought I liked the white one...but they were willing to let the gray one go for several grand cheaper. Apparently someone had custom ordered it and then backed out and it was sitting in a dock in Houston for awhile, and then at their dealership for a bit too. So ultimately, I ended up getting it for just a few grand more than the 2.0 I was looking at. Looking back now, and after talking with my service rep a few times, it was absolutely the right decision. The 3.0 is literally a different car than the 2.0. Just much, much faster and smoother. I'll have to check, it's fairly new and he's been busy with retirement plans so haven't had a chance to see them all that much. It may be a 2.0, but not sure. It's probably a good thing just because my dad can have a bit of a lead foot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
farmteam Posted March 11, 2015 Share Posted March 11, 2015 (edited) Been combing through this thread for advice. My car ('02 VW Cabrio, just under 91,000) has had a lot of maintenance lately and I'm getting fed up with it. I have a really basic problem though -- not a lot of money for a new one. I'm thinking lease one now as it will be newer so I won't have to put up with maintenance for a bit, presumably. I'd like to stay under $180/month. Am I crazy for wanting to go the lease route? This is my first time ever looking to lease or buy a new car, I got my current one off a friend in college. If I'm living in lala land with these thoughts, tell me. Also, I saw the truecar.com references so I've been looking at that, but does anyone know a good site to compare lease estimates across makes? Mostly seems like you have to search by make first, and I'm not attached to any specific make or model. Edited March 11, 2015 by farmteam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iwritecode Posted March 12, 2015 Share Posted March 12, 2015 How long does it take for an old debt that has been paid in full to fall off a credit report? A friend of mine wants to buy a car but they couldn’t approve her for a loan because her credit score is too low. Part of the reason it’s too low is an old student loan debt that was paid off a couple of weeks ago when they seized most of her tax return. So her plans to use the tax return and just pay cash for a car went out the window. My wife and I have been trying to help her out and one option we have discussed is co-signing a loan with her. But we know there are risks involved with that as well. We both have credit scores of 800+ and don’t want to ruin them if something happens and she can’t pay the loan anymore. The only other option we’ve come up with is going to a buy here/pay here (no credit, bad credit, no problem!) car lots. I just worry that she would end up with a POS that would need repairs every other week. She is borrowing a car from another friend for the moment but that is a very temporary solution. She needs to get something within the next week or two. She’s a single mom with a special needs daughter making just over minimum wage and she can’t seem to any kind of help or assistance at all. They told her that she makes too much to get food stamps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
southsider2k5 Posted March 12, 2015 Share Posted March 12, 2015 7 to 10 years in most cases. They stop hurting your scores the most within a few years. The important things is to get good items on there and push the bad items down the list. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jenksismyhero Posted March 12, 2015 Share Posted March 12, 2015 QUOTE (farmteam @ Mar 11, 2015 -> 06:24 PM) Been combing through this thread for advice. My car ('02 VW Cabrio, just under 91,000) has had a lot of maintenance lately and I'm getting fed up with it. I have a really basic problem though -- not a lot of money for a new one. I'm thinking lease one now as it will be newer so I won't have to put up with maintenance for a bit, presumably. I'd like to stay under $180/month. Am I crazy for wanting to go the lease route? This is my first time ever looking to lease or buy a new car, I got my current one off a friend in college. If I'm living in lala land with these thoughts, tell me. Also, I saw the truecar.com references so I've been looking at that, but does anyone know a good site to compare lease estimates across makes? Mostly seems like you have to search by make first, and I'm not attached to any specific make or model. Leases are fine so long as you know the negatives going in: most require a decent deposit (VW usually has that sign and drive deal though), they cost more in the long run if you're going to keep leasing, they have mileage and wear and tear restrictions, etc. $180 seems really low for any kind of car payment. What are you looking at? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
farmteam Posted March 13, 2015 Share Posted March 13, 2015 QUOTE (Jenksismyb**** @ Mar 12, 2015 -> 11:32 AM) Leases are fine so long as you know the negatives going in: most require a decent deposit (VW usually has that sign and drive deal though), they cost more in the long run if you're going to keep leasing, they have mileage and wear and tear restrictions, etc. $180 seems really low for any kind of car payment. What are you looking at? Sedans, compact or regular (think Corolla or Camry types). From what I've seen I should be able to do that, depending on the down payment. It looks like the mileage restrictions are where they can really get you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iamshack Posted March 13, 2015 Share Posted March 13, 2015 (edited) QUOTE (farmteam @ Mar 13, 2015 -> 06:26 AM) Sedans, compact or regular (think Corolla or Camry types). From what I've seen I should be able to do that, depending on the down payment. It looks like the mileage restrictions are where they can really get you. Everything is negotiable with these leases, nothing is really static except their formula which ensures they are going to charge you, over the life of the lease, more money than the new price of the car minus the projected residual value of the car you return to them once the lease is over. You can change mileage terms, down payment terms, the actual length of the term of the lease, etc. You have to ask yourself how many miles do I normally drive per year? How much do I want to put down? Do I believe I will be ready to buy or lease another vehicle in 3-4 years or do I expect I will have this vehicle for longer? Leases make sense if you don't drive more than 12-15k a year and you like a new car every 3-4 years. If you drive a lot or you don't mind driving cars into the ground, then you should buy something. In your shoes, just getting started with your career with student loans to pay, a slightly used car ('12 or later) might be a good option. Edited March 13, 2015 by iamshack Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Balta1701 Posted March 13, 2015 Share Posted March 13, 2015 QUOTE (Iwritecode @ Mar 12, 2015 -> 11:35 AM) How long does it take for an old debt that has been paid in full to fall off a credit report? A friend of mine wants to buy a car but they couldn’t approve her for a loan because her credit score is too low. Part of the reason it’s too low is an old student loan debt that was paid off a couple of weeks ago when they seized most of her tax return. So her plans to use the tax return and just pay cash for a car went out the window. My wife and I have been trying to help her out and one option we have discussed is co-signing a loan with her. But we know there are risks involved with that as well. We both have credit scores of 800+ and don’t want to ruin them if something happens and she can’t pay the loan anymore. The only other option we’ve come up with is going to a buy here/pay here (no credit, bad credit, no problem!) car lots. I just worry that she would end up with a POS that would need repairs every other week. She is borrowing a car from another friend for the moment but that is a very temporary solution. She needs to get something within the next week or two. She’s a single mom with a special needs daughter making just over minimum wage and she can’t seem to any kind of help or assistance at all. They told her that she makes too much to get food stamps. IIRC last I heard the window is like 7 years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Texsox Posted March 14, 2015 Share Posted March 14, 2015 QUOTE (Iwritecode @ Mar 12, 2015 -> 10:35 AM) How long does it take for an old debt that has been paid in full to fall off a credit report? A friend of mine wants to buy a car but they couldn’t approve her for a loan because her credit score is too low. Part of the reason it’s too low is an old student loan debt that was paid off a couple of weeks ago when they seized most of her tax return. So her plans to use the tax return and just pay cash for a car went out the window. My wife and I have been trying to help her out and one option we have discussed is co-signing a loan with her. But we know there are risks involved with that as well. We both have credit scores of 800+ and don’t want to ruin them if something happens and she can’t pay the loan anymore. The only other option we’ve come up with is going to a buy here/pay here (no credit, bad credit, no problem!) car lots. I just worry that she would end up with a POS that would need repairs every other week. She is borrowing a car from another friend for the moment but that is a very temporary solution. She needs to get something within the next week or two. She’s a single mom with a special needs daughter making just over minimum wage and she can’t seem to any kind of help or assistance at all. They told her that she makes too much to get food stamps. Instead of cosigning consider buying the car, keeping it in your name, and allow her to make payments until it is paid off. Depending on how good of a friend she is you could even make a few extra points interest in the deal. Charge some of the difference in rates she would wind up with at a "Buy Here - Pay Here" place. Credit card level interest is the norm at those car lots. But if you cosign, plan on being able to make the payments if she cannot. Anything less with damage your credit. It shows poor judgement to lenders that you are cosigning without plans to assume the debt at some point. You know how close to financial peril she is, perhaps even more IRS problems. All the same reasons banks are running away from here are why you could be left paying on the auto loan. Imagine something happens to her child, are you going to demand payment and cause the child to miss a doctor's visit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iwritecode Posted March 16, 2015 Share Posted March 16, 2015 QUOTE (Tex @ Mar 14, 2015 -> 12:20 PM) Instead of cosigning consider buying the car, keeping it in your name, and allow her to make payments until it is paid off. Depending on how good of a friend she is you could even make a few extra points interest in the deal. Charge some of the difference in rates she would wind up with at a "Buy Here - Pay Here" place. Credit card level interest is the norm at those car lots. But if you cosign, plan on being able to make the payments if she cannot. Anything less with damage your credit. It shows poor judgement to lenders that you are cosigning without plans to assume the debt at some point. You know how close to financial peril she is, perhaps even more IRS problems. All the same reasons banks are running away from here are why you could be left paying on the auto loan. Imagine something happens to her child, are you going to demand payment and cause the child to miss a doctor's visit? By co-signing the loan we would essentially be buying the car for her. We just want to have her name on the loan to build up her credit. If all goes well, she’ll build it up enough that she’ll be able to re-finance the loan in a year or two under her own name. It’s not so much that she has BAD credit. It’s that she has NO credit. We would be sure that the monthly payments will be affordable to her as well as us if we ever have to take over. We already have some numbers in mind. It’s just a matter of finding a car to fit those numbers. Worst case scenario is that we take over the payments and let our daughter have the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Texsox Posted March 19, 2015 Share Posted March 19, 2015 QUOTE (Iwritecode @ Mar 16, 2015 -> 09:41 AM) By co-signing the loan we would essentially be buying the car for her. We just want to have her name on the loan to build up her credit. If all goes well, she’ll build it up enough that she’ll be able to re-finance the loan in a year or two under her own name. It’s not so much that she has BAD credit. It’s that she has NO credit. We would be sure that the monthly payments will be affordable to her as well as us if we ever have to take over. We already have some numbers in mind. It’s just a matter of finding a car to fit those numbers. Worst case scenario is that we take over the payments and let our daughter have the car. With her name on the loan and title you will have a harder time taking the car if she defaults. As long as you are cool with paying for a car that she is driving, go ahead. Imagine the scenarios of taking the car back. She has made two years of payments then stops. Will you pay her back for those two years? If taking the car back means she will lose her job, will you accept that? What if she can't take care of her daughter without the car? You are being very generous and I don't want to sound callous. I applaud what you are doing for her. I am just pointing out a few pitfalls that you are facing. Now think about this. She makes all the payments, repairs her credit, and the rest of her life and her daughter's is made much, much, easier because of your faith in her and generosity. That's pretty cool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Texsox Posted March 19, 2015 Share Posted March 19, 2015 QUOTE (raBBit @ Mar 17, 2015 -> 04:16 PM) My aux input is messed up in my car. It's all loose and alternates from working on the left side, to the right side, to both and to neither. Does anyone know what my options are as far as getting it fixed? It's an '08 Dodge Charger if that makes any difference. Options Live with it. Replace the unit yourself Have a shop replace the entire unit Repair just the input yourself Have a shop repair the input I would also check the output on the device you are hooking up and the cable just to be certain you have isolated the problem. Also, check how the input is wired. I have seen the input separate from the head unit. You could find one at a pick and pull and install that style very easily. If you are lucky the cable will unplug from the input module and a new input module will just pop into the dash. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iwritecode Posted March 19, 2015 Share Posted March 19, 2015 (edited) QUOTE (Tex @ Mar 19, 2015 -> 06:51 AM) With her name on the loan and title you will have a harder time taking the car if she defaults. As long as you are cool with paying for a car that she is driving, go ahead. Imagine the scenarios of taking the car back. She has made two years of payments then stops. Will you pay her back for those two years? If taking the car back means she will lose her job, will you accept that? What if she can't take care of her daughter without the car? You are being very generous and I don't want to sound callous. I applaud what you are doing for her. I am just pointing out a few pitfalls that you are facing. Now think about this. She makes all the payments, repairs her credit, and the rest of her life and her daughter's is made much, much, easier because of your faith in her and generosity. That's pretty cool. It's not the first time we've helped her out. We actually had temporary custody of her daughter for about a year a couple of years ago, so we are pretty close. I think we can get everything worked out. It's kinda of shocking to see how someone can get stuck in a downward cycle with almost no way out. Edited March 19, 2015 by Iwritecode Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Texsox Posted March 19, 2015 Share Posted March 19, 2015 QUOTE (Iwritecode @ Mar 19, 2015 -> 10:16 AM) It's not the first time we've helped her out. We actually had temporary custody of her daughter for about a year a couple of years ago, so we are pretty close. I think we can get everything worked out. It's kinda of shocking to see how someone can get stuck in a downward cycle with almost no way out. It is really difficult to pull yourself up today. The classic strategy of get a job and work hard is nice, but one car failure, one illness, one financial misstep and years of gains collapse. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Texsox Posted March 19, 2015 Share Posted March 19, 2015 QUOTE (raBBit @ Mar 19, 2015 -> 03:00 PM) I definitely need to get it fixed or fix it myself. I am certain it is AUX input as it's visibly damaged and I've tried different devices/cords. Unfortunately the AUX module is not one that pops right out. I would have to take the whole radio out. Do you think any shop would work on this? If it is integral to the head unit, I'd be looking at http://www.crutchfield.com/ picking one out and installing it myself. Their on line technicians and installation guides are top notch. It will probably be cheaper to replace than repairing. Crutchfield is where all the cool kids go for cheap prices on quality gear. If you want to try pull the unit and attempt to take it apart. There may be a youtube video showing how, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Texsox Posted March 19, 2015 Share Posted March 19, 2015 Another thought. Look around the back of your unit and see if there is a second input you could tap into. Some of the older stuff allowed for a iPod to be mounted elsewhere like a glovebox. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iwritecode Posted March 23, 2015 Share Posted March 23, 2015 Debating between a 2006 Nissan Altima 2.5s with 71,000 miles and a 2005 Honda Accord EX-L with 138,000 miles. Both are the same price. I'm not real familiar with Nissan in general but I've read a lot of positive reviews. Although everyone I've ever talked to said that a Honda will last for a long, long time. We are looking for reliability over anything. Haven't seen the Nissan in person yet but the Honda was obviously well cared for. It's very clean inside and out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthSideSox72 Posted March 23, 2015 Share Posted March 23, 2015 QUOTE (Iwritecode @ Mar 23, 2015 -> 01:43 PM) Debating between a 2006 Nissan Altima 2.5s with 71,000 miles and a 2005 Honda Accord EX-L with 138,000 miles. Both are the same price. I'm not real familiar with Nissan in general but I've read a lot of positive reviews. Although everyone I've ever talked to said that a Honda will last for a long, long time. We are looking for reliability over anything. Haven't seen the Nissan in person yet but the Honda was obviously well cared for. It's very clean inside and out. They should both be good cars if they were both taken care of well (Carfax can help with that). I personally would be skeptical buying any car with 138,000 miles though, even a very reliable one that looks very clean. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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